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COMMON BERMUDA / SOUTHERN STAR |
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Cynodon dactylon |
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Overview |
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Although Cynodon dactylon (common bermuda grass) originates from East Africa
there is evidence that it grew all over Africa before the division of the
continents! It is therefore considered to be indigenous to South Africa. This
grass has a creeping growth habit but is far less invasive than kikuyu. |
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Bermuda grass remains one of the most heat and drought tolerant lawns, using
less than half as much water as kikuyu at maturity. |
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Southern Star is an improved Bermuda grass bred for improved turf
characteristics such as increased dwarfness and brighter green colour (standard
Bermuda grass has a blue-green colour). |
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Southern Star is well suited to home lawns, sportsfields, runways and fairways
(although it should not be mown shorter than 12mm). It grows best in full sun,
but will tolerate a little shade. In frosty areas the grass avoids cold damage
by going dormant (brown) in winter. |
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Establishment |
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When? |
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Spring and summer in frosty areas. In frost free areas, all year round, other
than the coldest times of the year. |
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Remove existing grass if the area is in full sun and other grasses were
growing there before, it is important to get rid of them properly before
establishing a new lawn. The underground runners of creeping grasses can be very
persistent so you can’t simply dig it out. |
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It is best to spray the existing grass with a non-selective weed killer. |
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Soil preparation |
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- If the soil is dry, water the area thoroughly a day or two before you begin soil
preparation.
- Spread Super Phosphate at a rate of 50g* per m² over the entire area (50
g is approx. one medium sized handful) *This is a general recommendation, made
in the absence of a soil test.
- Dig the area over incorporating the Super Phosphate to a depth of approximately
15 cm. At this point you could dig in some compost. This is not generally
necessary and can cause problems if the compost contains weed seeds and is not
well rotted. Never leave compost as a layer on top of the soil as it dries out
far more easily than soil does, and will not allow the seed to stay moist enough
during the critical germination period.
- Break down clods to create a fine seedbed
- Spread a balanced fertiliser such as 5:1:5 or 3:1:5 at 30 g per m² and rake into
the surface of the soil.
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Sowing the seed |
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- Ensure that you have the right amount of seed, i.e. 1 kg per 100 m².
- Broadcast the seed over the area as evenly as possible by hand, or by
using a drop seeder (a fertiliser spreader will do, as long as you have checked
that it does not crush the seed).
- To achieve an even spread, split the amount of seed in two, moving up and
down with one half and across and back with the other.
- The seed is very small so you can mix it with sand to bulk it up.
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Covering the seed |
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Rake the area lightly (using a steel rake), so that most of the seed is covered
by no more than 1 cm of soil. This seed needs light to germinate so don’t bury
it too deeply. Also, don’t cover with a layer of compost as it dries out too
easily and may prevent successful germination! |
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Compacting |
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It is essential to compact the area lightly. If you don’t have a roller, then
use something like a drum on its side or simply trample lightly under foot. This
step is very important, as it brings the seed into direct contact with moist
soil, reduces wash-aways and initiates capillary action (the movement of water
upwards through the soil profile). |
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Watering |
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Keep the area moist at all times for the first two weeks. By then the
seed will have germinated and watering frequency should be reduced. You may need
to water more than once a day. Avoid puddles. |
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Maintenance |
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Mowing |
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Start |
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- When grass is 6 cm long. Set the mower at its highest setting (no less than 4
cm).
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Height |
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- Sunny areas 2 to 5 cm (lower heights necessitate twice weekly mowing).
- 1/3 rd RULE - Never remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade at a time.
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Frequency |
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- Generally once a week (more if cut shorter than 4 cm).
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Irrigating |
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This grass can be maintained without an irrigation system. A shortage of water
will result in the grass going dormant (brown). If water remains unavailable for
a protracted period the grass may die. |
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Although this is a relatively drought tolerant grass at maturity, it still needs
regular watering during establishment. Irrigation can be reduced once the root
system is established. |
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Fertilisation |
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50 g (approximately one handful) per m² of 5:1:5 or 3:1:5 three times a year. |
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Slow release formulations are recommended, as lawns do best when fertilised
little and often. |
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Pests and Diseases |
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Take careful note of the symptoms, i.e. spots on leaves, size and location of
patches etc. and phone the MayFord Helpline insert connection or speak to a
specialist in this field. Remember that insects and fungal diseases know
nothing about straight lines, so if you see straight lines look for a man-made
problem! |
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Healthy, actively growing lawn is less susceptible to diseases and insects so
don’t skimp on fertilising (you can’t avoid regular mowing!) |
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Good air flow reduces humidity and helps to avoid disease. Don’t over water or
underwater – both cause stress to all grasses. |
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Traffic |
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Where traffic is excessive the pressure can be reduced by setting paving stones
or sleepers into the grass and just mow over the top. This is a creeping grass
and possess the ability to cover bare patches. |
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Weeds |
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The best way to avoid weeds is to have actively growing grass forming a dense
canopy that does not allow light through to the soil surface. Fertilise and mow
regularly and you will literally “cut out” the majority of problems. Ask a
specialist before spraying a herbicide. |
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Aerating and Top Dressing |
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Spiking or hollow tining: Use a garden fork or tining fork on highly
compacted areas. Push the whole length of the tine into the soil to get good
water and air penetration. |
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Top dressing: Creeping grasses may be covered with a layer of soil or
compost. This activity is primarily done to level areas. |
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